Les 5 tips pour sortir des sentiers battus en Tanzanie
La Tanzanie est devenue en quelques années une destination de choix pour les amateurs de safari ; jadis confidentielle, elle est aujourd’hui devenue une destination majeure pour les primo accédants au voyage en Afrique… et pourtant, ce gigantesque pays a encore de la place et quelques espaces qui permettent de s’offrir la Tanzanie pour soi… Ce pays, eldorado des agences de voyages qui croient que c’est si simple, offrent une expérience souvent gâchée alors que de simples précautions d’usage permettent de faire un voyage d’exception sans, parfois, payer des sommes folles.
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1 – Partir hors saison
Les agences de voyage sont persuadées que les mois d’avril et de mai sont à déconseiller. Ainsi, les quelques-unes qui osent se font taxées par leurs clients d’incompétence. Il est vrai que tous ont grandi avec cette certitude ; s’il est vrai qu’avril et mai ont en principe une pluviométrie plus élevée, les règles, en matière climatique, sont mises à mal par le changement du même nom… ainsi ces deux mois de l’année, période de vacances scolaires et des ponts de mai sont boudés… les réserves et les lodges sont vides et pourtant…
Les plaines sont vertes, le cratère est vert, le contraste des couleurs est fabuleux, jamais la Tanzanie n’est aussi belle. Les animaux eux sont là , pas le choix, mais les couleurs… par ailleurs, moins de monde implique des conditions de safari extraordinaires… Et les lodges étant moins voire pas remplis, les prix sont bas… le service peut aussi en pâtir mais de fin mars à fin mai… offrez-vous un safari en Tanzanie comme personne… seul conseil cependant : évitez d’y associer Zanzibar où le risque de pluie peut être bien plus gênant.
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2 – Commencer par Zanzibar
Si comme 90% des gens, vous envisagez de partir pendant les vacances scolaires, roulez à contre sens… commencer par la plage plutôt que de finir avec (si tel était votre projet). Ainsi, vous vous reposez avant de découvrir, vous profitez de Zanzibar sans avoir à grogner car le service et l’accueil y est médiocre si l’on compare à la Tanzanie continentale… et vous arrivez dans les réserves quand tout le monde est à … Zanzibar… à défaut de payer moins cher (bien que cela soit possible), vous aurez de la place et moins de monde sur les routes. Cela se ressent sur le période tendues telles que fin décembre et début août…
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3 РDormir dans des zones p̩riph̩riques
Il existe des régions périphériques qui permettent d‘éviter les migrations touristiques ; une règle simple : si votre lodge est dans une zone de gros lodges, alors les pistes seront pleines de 4X4 que vous suivrez, qui vous suivront… bref vous mangerez plus de poussières et aurez des sensations moins agréables. Ainsi privilégiez les zones de Grumeti, d’Olduvai, l’intérieur de Tarangire et non sa périphérie… Le Serengeti pourtant si grand est sujet à ce genre de phénomène… choisir l’extrême Nord l’été, lors de la migration est source de fatigue (sauf si l’on y vole) mais quelle récompense une fois arrivé : grande migration et relative solitude…
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4 – Voyager seul
Beaucoup de gens veulent aller en Tanzanie, une sorte de République Dominicaine version safari… les prix rivalisent et il est difficile de se faire une opinion. Une chose est certaine, un safari d’une semaine à moins de 4500€ par personne (vol inclus) est suspect : vous dormirez en dehors des zones intéressantes voire éloignés de celles-ci et l’on vous abusera sans doute en faisant croire qu’un safari est prévu alors que vous dormez en ville (vous paierez la différence en temps de route pénible)… le voyage ne sera pas en privé et vous devrez partager le 4X4 avec d’autres personnes (seul moyen de payer moins cher car le véhicule et le guide, postes les plus chers voient leur quote part baisser plus le nombre de personnes qu’ils transportent est important) ;
Oubliez enfin le lodge de charme ou le camp de toile, même simple mais au service impeccable… les gros lodges seront privilégiés… avec leur « cantine » et les sensations qui vont avec. Enfin, méfiez-vous des prix peu chers (en général) ; si sur Internet, on a des bonnes affaires sur la mode (dont les marges sont enviables), il existe pour le safari des frais incompressibles… dumper les prix revient à jouer avec le feu et à s’exposer à des opérateurs qui font ou vont faire faillite… Bref… il faut le juste prix et lire entre les lignes…
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5 – Ne choisissez pas n’importe quel vol international
Si comme tout acheteur, vous regardez le prix sans regarder l’étiquette, vous vous exposez à des arrivées tardives ou trop tôt qui vous fatigueront pendant une semaine, vous aurez 7 heures d’attente ou ¾ d’heure ce qui vous fatiguera (d’autant que ces 7 heures seront souvent au milieu de la nuit… regardez ce point attentivement, surtout si vous voyagez en famille ou pendant peu de temps… vous paierez au prix cher l’économie parfois substantielle que vous pourrez faire… La Tanzanie est une destination unique et inoubliable, l’aborder épuisé, énervé, baladé, risque de gâcher l’investissement qui restera important pour un tel voyage.
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