Un matin en brousse…
Tous les matins ne se valent pas. Ils dépendent de l’heure, de l’endroit, de la compagnie, de l’ambiance et de la promesse de la journée. Mais les meilleurs matins sont ceux où l’on est complètement présents. L’avenir est incertain, le passé oublié. Donc le présent est la seule chose qui compte. Voici donc le récit d’un matin, en Afrique, en brousse car il existe peu d’endroits au monde où l’on est aussi loin du monde et aussi près de ce qu’il devrait être.
Le matin en brousse se découvre juste avant le lever du soleil. Depuis son lit, tôt, très tôt. La lumière est encore grise et dehors les couleurs le sont aussi. Les yeux s’ouvrent difficilement mais il faut faire l’effort d’aller ouvrir les fenêtres puis replonger dans un lit douillé, gonfler ses oreillers et savourer la vue sur l’infini. Quelques longues minutes de flottement nous sont alors offertes, entre sommeil et éveil, avant que le soleil ne daigne sortir de l’horizon.
Le gris de l’aube disparaît et l’horizon devient paysage. Les rivières deviennent plus vertes, les collines plus escarpées. Les détails fleurissent et quelques animaux commencent à se dessiner. Le vert des arbres, le jaune de l’herbe, le rouge de la terre et le bleu du ciel dessinent ensemble le plus beau des tableaux.
Si dans le gris de l’aube, les bruits commencent à remonter de la brousse, la sortie du soleil lance rapidement le concert des sons. Celui des insectes tout d’abord, multiple, indéfinissable et pourtant quasiment toujours le même. Lancinant, tranquille et de plus en plus fort, le son des insectes entre alors en concurrence avec les oiseaux dans un concert doux et répétitifs. Les yeux ne peuvent alors plus se refermer. Le regard et tout le corps est attiré vers l’extérieur… Il fait frais. Doux, mais frais. Il faut sortir sur la terrasse, s’allonger sur une chaise longue et laisser partir son regard sur l’horizon. La tête encore saoule de sa nuit, reste immobile quand les yeux, eux, virevoltent à la recherche de l’origine du bruit. Ici un insecte chantonne, invisible, là un oiseau répète le même son comme un perpétuel refrain. Puis, avec la lueur du soleil, les herbes et les arbres commencent à chuchoter. Ici un craquement dans un arbre, là , une herbe frôlée. Tout peut arriver et c’est bien là la beauté d’une journée en brousse. Tout peut arriver. Et même si rien n’arrive, la perspective d’une rencontre ou d’un moment unique, la promesse de l’inédit rend l’instant unique.
Aux sens en éveil, se succèdent les odeurs. Celle de la nature, des essences d’arbres ou de l’herbe encore humide de la rosée nocturne. Et ces odeurs changent au fur et à mesure que le soleil sort du sol et réchauffe l’air. L’odeur de la nuit et sa fraîcheur laisse place à celle des herbes bronzées et du sol brûlé. Tous les matins du monde se valent mais on n’en apprécie que trop peu. Ici, on sait que ce matin est unique, inattendu, que nous sommes au milieu d’un monde à la fois sauvage, loin de nos repères et pourtant… on se sent bien, à sa place dans ce silence bruyant et odorant.
Une fois l’aube consommée, je conseille souvent de faire un petit tour. Pas loin. Juste autour de sa chambre, en sécurité. Mais de fouler le sol, se sentir en prise avec les éléments. Les lodges proposent toujours un safari le matin, très tôt. Trop tôt. On part, cheveux au vent dans un 4X4 à la quête d’une rencontre alors que souvent la rencontre vient à nous. Je conseille souvent de profiter pleinement du matin. Trainer au lit, fenêtres ouvertes. Se lever lentement et trainer sur la terrasse. Prendre le petit déjeuner sans hâte avec vue sur l’horizon. Puis faire une petite balade, sans ambition, juste se dégourdir les jambes, sentir le soleil chauffer l’air et guetter ce qu’il peut se passer. On redevient alors une proie ou un spectateur, un atome de ce monde sauvage et primaire… On redevient vivant.
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