L’Afrique du Sud, paradis du “slow travel”
Même si cela est difficilement imaginable aujourd’hui, le voyage va revenir dans nos pensées et nos envies. L’accès au voyage sera toujours aussi simple et plus abordable. Cette envie viendra se confronter l’envie de préserver la planète ; certains y répondront en ne prenant pas l’avion, d’autres choisiront d’y répondre en voyageant plus lentement. Il est évident que le voyage présente bien des vertus pour ceux qui le pratiquent et pour ceux qui l’accueillent. Mais l’on confond le voyage avec le sur tourisme qui émeut les grandes villes européennes, le voyage avec l’avion. On confond le voyage avec bien des maux qui ne lui appartiennent pas. Voyager ne signifie pas aller où tout le monde va, y aller rapidement, consommer et zapper. Voyager ne permet pas de comprendre ou simplement de prendre du plaisir si l’on va où tout le monde va.
L’Afrique du Sud, aidée par sa très grande superficie (2,5 fois la France), est encore, quoiqu’on en dise, protégée du tourisme de masse ; on pourra y être confronté si toutefois on reste dans certains rails, à certaines heures. Mais il est très simple de toucher une certaine vérité de ce pays… pour cela, il faut 1) prendre son temps et/ou 2) privilégier des zones peu visitées…
J’ai déjà fait l’éloge des destinations “sans intérêt”. Il existe des endroits en Afrique du Sud qui ne sont pas dénués de visiteurs, mais le plus souvent, ils sont locaux ou simplement absents et pourtant, ces zones sont fabuleuses :
- Le Sud du pays hors route des vins et des jardins : le grand Sud du pays est très beau, les espaces sont plus grands qu’ailleurs, les paysages époustouflants. Parmi eux, la zone du Karoo, semi désertique, entre réserves sauvages, parc national et routes infinies, fermes d’autruches, grandes terres agricoles et nature exponentielle… cette région mérite le (long) détour qu’elle impose. On roulera doucement. On s’arrêtera dans des villes rurales, vraies. On s’arrêtera où l’on voudra, on sera libre… de Graaf Renet à Beaufort West, un monde inédit s’offre au voyageur curieux et lent.
- Le Nord inconnu : à l’Est le Kruger et la Blyde, à l’Ouest Pilanesberg et Madikwe et au milieu, depuis Johannesburg et en prenant la N1 vers le Zimbabwe, on découvre des paysages sublimes. Brousse, régions agricoles, petites villes thermales ou paysannes, bref une Afrique du Sud figée dans le temps, rurale, vivant avec la nature. Alors évidemment, ce n’est pas la terre des plus grands progressistes du pays, mais certaines réserves sont uniques, riches en animaux et très belles. Certes elles sont moins connues ; elles portent le nom de Welgevongen, Lapalala ou Waterberg. Proches, elles sont faciles d’accès, n’ont pas le palu et permettent de vivre une expérience de brousse sud africaine unique.
- Le long des villes : la ville du Cap et sa beauté attire. Je conseillerais pourtant d’opter pour des villes alentours. Là où l’effet grande ville s’estompe sans renier la visite des incontournables…. Ainsi la petite ville de Gordon’s Bay ou celle de Langebaan (avec une vue sublime sur la ville de l’autre côté de la baie) ou encore Hout Bay ou Paternoster, permettent de vivre le Cap… sans le Cap.
- Le Nord Ouest est sans aucun doute la région la moins visitées du pays. Cela ne la rend pas plus belle, ne nous y trompons pas… Mais cela peut la rendre plus authentique… en roulant vers le Nord depuis le Cap, en longeant (de loin) la côte Atlantique, on va découvrir le massif du Cederberg. Sa nature généreuse et ses peintures rupestres sont parfaits pour les amoureux de randonnée et de nature. Puis en continuant on arrivera dans le mythique Namaqualand et ses prairies de fleur au printemps venu. On terminera par le parc national du Kalahari qui permet de découvrir un autre visage de l’Afrique du Sud, entre désert et brousse… évidemment, il faut aimer la route mais l’Afrique du Sud est un pays taillé (et équipé) pour cela.
- Johannesburg: Nul ne peut ignorer l’existence de cette ville. beaucoup la visiteront rapidement ou lors d’un transit aérien. Mais rares sont ceux qui, pour de vrai, en font une étape de leur voyage. Et pourtant, il n’y a pas mieux que Johannesburg pour mesurer la vérité de ce pays. Evitons Sandton où se presseront les rares touristes et hommes d’affaires. Une fois cette précaution prise, cette ville gigantesque aux multiples trésors s’offre à vous avec pour seule compagnie… les sud africains.
Une fois que vous avez choisi vos étapes, faites des choix, sacrifiez en certaines. Passez du temps, 2, 3 ou 4 nuits, arrêtez de rouler, de bouger, de vouloir voir… Ressentez, marchez, vivez… Rencontrez, perdez-vous, ennuyez-vous aussi. Toujours connectés, nous avons oublié les vertus de l’ennui, du manque de programme, de l’absence de highlight… Et pourtant, un voyage c’est aussi des vacances, le moment de se retrouver, de se reconnecter, de vivre avec soi dans le monde réel… de découvrir sa vérité. L’Afrique du Sud comme d’autres pays peut permettre de vivre cela, de se reconnecter. De choisir l’ennui programmé mais rarement délivré. S’ennuyer c’est se libérer du temps pour vivre l’inattendu.
Et l’inattendu heureux, voici un bel objectif à atteindre pour un prochain voyage dans ce monde post Covid.
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