La femme, porte drapeau de l’élégance africaine
L’élégance est l’un des très jolis mots en français, il décrit une harmonie physique qui n’est pas forcément liée à la beauté pure mais à une certaine harmonie entre divers éléments. Cette définition improvisée digne du Petit Larousse (ou presque) décrit pour moi quelque chose d’assez précis et en même temps de très vaste : une certaine idée de la femme africaine, maîtresse de l’élégance, en voici la démonstration et quelques exemples.
Quiconque a voyagé en Afrique, où que ce soit en Afrique sub saharienne est frappé par la démarche des femmes, ces femmes du quotidien, qui portent de trop lourds fardeaux ou leurs enfants. L’observateur est frappé de voir combien certaines femmes, dans des lieux si reculés parfois, ont un sens des couleurs, des drapés, un cou long et fort, une démarche, des chevelures ou tresses disposées nonchalamment mais avec une élégance foudroyante. La femme africaine est enviée, jalousée, inégalée… nombreux furent les auteurs et photographes qui lui rendirent hommage. Je me souviens encore avec émoi de cet ouvrage photographique conçu autour des poèmes de Léopold Sedar Senghor sur la femme africaine… « femme noire ».
Aujourd’hui encore, des routes isolées d’Ethiopie quand le soleil n’a pas encore percé le brouillard matinal, leur silhouette allongée par leur chargement décore l’aurore. Sur les berges du fleuve Niger, non loin de Mopti, les couleurs de leur drapé se mélange au linge étendu le long du fleuve. Sur les sentiers escarpés du Zululand ou dans les chemins forestiers du Rwanda ou d’Ouganda, elles illuminent le continent au quotidien et lui apportent une grande part de sa beauté. Mais que l’on ne s’y trompe pas… Tant de beauté et d’élégance n’est pas sans conséquence sur le monde.
La femme africaine, son savoir inné, son sens esthétique sont en train de conquérir le monde. L’un des plus beaux exemples est incarné en France et en Belgique « Osez le foulard » et sa très élégante fondatrice DK Ange qui a donné une noblesse au foulard, dressé sur la tête, tel une couronne moderne, accompagnant la silhouette et véritable hommage à la femme africaine. Mais que l’on ne s’y trompe pas, cette célébration n’est pas une revanche ou une guerre comme certains le croient. Comment leur en vouloir d’ailleurs. Mais c’est une mise en lumière d’une évidence ; à travers les femmes africaines, une certaine esthétique africaine est célébrée, tout cela est lié au mouvement actuel et c’est aussi bien plus profond.
Nombreuses sont les créatrices de mode qui s’inspirent de leur racines et origines pour créer leur marque et sublimer à leur tour cette esthétique. Mais la vérité est sans doute ailleurs. Je suis convaincu que l’esthétique africaine a une vocation à devenir universelle, dès lors qu’elle acquiert en sérénité et en universalité. Plusieurs personnes peuvent incarner cela. Une fois encore, la sublime Swaady Martin qui a travers son tout récent livre (« Malaika and the angel » inuaguré ce weekend à Nirox Johannesburg) ou son œuvre entrepreneuriale via Yswara , est l’une des représentantes universalistes de ce mouvement ; son dernier article dans Fairlady (édition de novembre 2017 à paraître) le prouve si nécessaire. La SAFashionweek qui a eu lieu cette semaine prouve si nécessaire que le mouvement devient profond et puissant et que les créateurs africains commencent à émerger sérieusement. Certes certains connaissent Loza Maleombho à Abidjan ou Rama Diaw à Saint Louis, dignes chantres de cet esthétisme en cours d’évolution. Mais les influenceurs telles que Diana Opoti au Kenya œuvrent fortement à mettre ce mouvement en musique avec bientôt un énorme concept store à Nairobi autour de la mode et de la création africaine et moderne.
Cet esthétisme touche évidemment les enfants avec la superbe marque Butter Pudding qui, à son tour, communique autour d’un « héritage » esthétique africain qui doit aussi envahir la mode pour enfant comme ce sera bientôt le cas et comme cela est communiqué par son slogan « Africa your time is now ».
La femme africaine n’a pas fini d’inspirer les créateurs mais elle n’a pas fini, non plus, de prendre le pouvoir et de passer d’inspiratrice à créatrice. Ce changement profond est en train de se produire et leur modèle va bien au-delà d’une esthétique seulement accessible aux femmes noires. L’élégance africaine, celles des femmes, ce don du ciel, hérité d’un art de vivre mais aussi de vies difficiles, est en train de gagner du terrain et, à notre humble mesure et dans bien des domaines, nous nous attachons à Mon Ambassade et en toute humilité, à le démontrer.
Pour conclure, j’aimerais citer Leopold Sedar Senghor qui finalement en quelques mots résume tout cela ; ainsi est le pouvoir de la poésie :
Vêtue de ta couleur qui est vie, de ta forme qui est beauté
J’ai grandi à ton ombre ; la douceur de tes mains bandait mes yeux
Et voilà qu’au cœur de l’Été et de Midi,
Je te découvre, Terre promise, du haut d’un haut col calciné
Et ta beauté me foudroie en plein cœur, comme l’éclair d’un aigle
Leopold Sedar Senghor « Femme noire » – recueil « chants d’ombre »
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