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Décrié par les spécialistes, adorés des amateurs de safaris en liberté, très fréquenté et gigantesque, le parc Kruger est un véritable joyau. Prenons ensemble une petite City Golf bleue avec une bande blanche et partons sur la N4 depuis Johannesburg. 4 heures de route sont nécessaires pour rejoindre l’un des points d’entrée du parc. C’est parti.
Carte d’identité du Parc Kruger.
Assis entre deux régions, Mpumalanga et Limpopo, le parc national Kruger s’étend sur prés de 20 000 km². Long de 350 km du Nord au Sud et large de 60 km en moyenne, d’Est en Ouest, le parc Kruger fut créé par le président du Transvaal du même nom en 1898 sous le nom de la Sabie Game Reserve. Ce n’est qu’en 1926 qu’il devient parc national et prend le nom de ce président important du pays. Ce que l’on appelle communément le parc Kruger comprend le parc national lui-même mais aussi les très nombreuses réserves privées qui l’entourent. Cela crée un domaine sauvage extraordinaire et à la biodiversité absolument unique.
Son profil étendu du Nord au Sud, lui permet d’offrir au voyageur de très nombreux paysages différents, des écosystèmes si variés qu’ils justifieraient de faire un voyage uniquement dans cette zone. Si les réserves privées sont dédiées aux lodges privés, ne pouvant être parcourues que par des 4X4, le parc national dispose de pistes confortables et même de routes goudronnées qui permettent de le parcourir, même avec de petites voitures urbaines. Mais si son apparente accessibilité en gêne certain et donne lui à des scènes pas très exotiques, la réalité est que cette ensemble sauvage grand comme la Belgique, propose de découvrir la faune africaine à moindre coût, mais pas à moindre qualité. Découverte.
A chacun sa porte d’entrée:
Le parc national dispose de plusieurs portes d’entrée. On choisit la sienne en fonction de son itinéraire et de l’endroit où l’on va dormir dans la parc. Quand on arrive de Johannesburg, on choisira celle de Malelane au Sud ou Crocodile Bridge. Si l’on dispose de temps, on ira jusqu’à Numbi non loin de Pretoriuskop ou la porte principale Paul Kruger à une cinquantaine de kilomètres d’Haziview. Ces portes d’entrées sont gardées par des rangers et permettent de contrôler les visiteurs, encaisser les frais d’entrée.
Ces portes sont aussi le lieu où les règles de circulation sont rappelées. Ici on n’est pas dans un zoo mais dans la vraie nature, sauvage, avec ces règles. On rappelle aussi la vitesse à respecter, les consignes de sécurité et surtout, surtout, ne jamais sortir de son véhicule en dehors des zones dédiées. On peut y acheter des cartes pour ce qui a la taille d’un pays. Je conseille en général d’acheter son guide avant le voyage, notamment le Kruger National Park Official Guide. Cela permet non seulement de préparer avec soin son itinéraire mais aussi de découvrir les divers écosystèmes et les animaux que l’on rencontrera selon le paysage traversé. Le plein de la voiture est fait. Tout est désormais prêt pour affronter ce géant.
Etre son propre ranger:
La première chose que l’on fait quand on rentre, c’est que ses yeux deviennent vos premiers radars pour découvrir ses trésors. Au premier safari, on s’émerveillera devant les antilopes et autres animaux communs comme les zèbres et girafes qui déambulent nonchalamment. Puis avec le temps, on deviendra plus exigeant. Les yeux sont les premiers radars. Essayer de repérer les animaux dans la végétation quelque soit leur taille n’est pas toujours si simple. Le premier sentiment est de voir combien le camouflage est l’arme de la plupart des animaux et même des plus grands. Il sera souvent nécessaire de disposer d’une paire de jumelle.
Sortir des pistes étant interdit, les animaux seront souvent un peu loin pour les voir correctement. Fenêtres ouvertes, allure lente, les oreilles sont le second radar. Une branche qui se casse, un frottement d’herbes hautes, un bruit même léger, tout est signe, tout est alerte. Le mieux demeure de deviner les lieux à potentiel. Un point d’eau, un point de vue, une vue simplement dégagée, permettent de couper le moteur et profiter pleinement des bruits et des indices. Si les règles de sécurité sont rappelées à l’entrée, c’est que le parc Kruger donne une impression de sécurité et donne aussi une irrépressible envie de sortir de son véhicule. Il ne le faut pas.
Pendant son séjour au Kruger, les yeux des voyageurs sont donc de plus en plus affinés. La chasse du jour dépend de vos yeux, de la vitesse aussi du véhicule et de votre karma. Il dépend aussi de la gentillesse des gens que vous croiserez. Souvent, ils s’arrêteront pour vous signaler quelque chose. Ou quelques voitures arrêtées seront souvent le signe d’une scène intéressante. Selon l’itinéraire, l’heure de la journée, la région ou le type de route, vous pourrez aussi provoquer la chance en allant au bon endroit, au bon moment.
Le parc Kruger des hommes
Le parc Kruger propose des rest camp situés du Nord au Sud, permettant de séjourner dans le parc à moindre coût. Si le service est inexistant et le confort sommaire, cela reste très appréciable et tout à fait acceptable. Composés de petits bungalows au toit de chaume, avec une literie simple, des draps, les rest camp propose parfois un service de restauration simple type cafeteria mais aussi une petite superette. Nous sommes au pays du barbecue et chaque bungalow a son barbecue (braai) et le soir ou même le midi, on peut acheter de quoi s’alimenter et profiter de la nature environnante. S’il n’est pas rare de croiser quelques antilopes dans l’enceinte des rest camp, ils sont protégés de larges grillages qui empêchent l’intrusion d’animaux dangereux ou encombrants. On est donc en sécurité dans les rest camp. Souvent, la question revient de savoir dans quel rest camp séjourner. La réponse est avant tout: celui qui est disponible. Très prisés, peu onéreux, il faut réserver longtemps à l’avance. Les sud africains eux mêmes réservent souvent un an à l’avance. Après, chacun aimera souvent “son” rest camp, celui qu’il a expérimenté. Mais je n’en retiendrai finalement que 4.
Lower Sabie, situé au Sud Est, le long de la rivière du même nom. Il est situé dans la zone la plus fréquentée mais honnêtement la plus riche, la plus verte aussi. Puis le plus beau point de vue sera celui offert par Olifants, situé au milieu du parc, à l’Ouest. Une promenade en bois permet de longer la colline où ce rest camp est posé. La région, plus légèrement escarpée, offre un point de vue unique, notamment en fin de journée. La nuit, la rivière en contrebas laisse remonter le mugissement puissant des hippopotames. Satara est sans doute le plus anonyme et pourtant, situé entre Sud et Centre, il est au cÅ“ur d’une région souvent aride mais particulièrement riche. Moins fréquentée que le Sud, cette région est parfaite pour partir au petit matin et se retrouver le premier sur les pistes encore fraîches. Punda Maria enfin est le camp situé le plus au Nord. Très rarement choisi tellement il est éloigné, sa région est moins prisée. Plus sèche, vraiment éloignée, les animaux y sont souvent plus rares, sauf peut être durant l’été austral, plus humide. Mais on récolte souvent dans la Nord, quelque chose que l’on recherche sans cesse… la solitude. Et dès lors chaque rencontre devient magique.
Comment faire pour trouver les animaux seuls ?
Selon la saison, il faut partir tôt. Notamment au printemps et en été. Avant que la chaleur ne frappe et que le soleil tape, partir tôt est souvent la première recette pour vivre 
des scènes uniques. Les félins se reposent encore sur les pistes après une nuit agitée, les animaux bougent encore avant de se réfugier sous les arbres ou derrière les hautes herbes. Et la lumière est magnifique, les sensations, les odeurs, le bruit doux de la brousse qui s’éveille. Et enfin une solitude certaine. Ainsi les rest camp qui sont vers l’intérieur sont les plus favorables pour partir tôt et goûter la solitude.
Les bureaux des rangers font le compte des rencontres de la veille. Avant de partir, il est toujours bon d’aller y faire un tour. Un ranger est souvent présent pour dispenser des conseils; La carte mentionne les rencontres de la veille et permet de construire son propre itinéraire. Les félins notamment ne parcourent pas de longues distances. Il suffit qu’une carcasse traînent dans le coin et ils y resteront quelques jours. Echanger avec les autres voyageurs, dans le rest camp, sur la route ou dans les aires de repos est aussi une bonne source d’information.
Le type de route ne décidera pas des animaux que vous verrez. Certains animaux apprécient particulièrement la douceur du goudron. Mais il est vrai que les pistes sont plus photogéniques et surtout moins fréquentées. Au sortir des rest camps, partir sur une piste au petit matin permet de se sentir vraiment dans une nature totalement vierge et donc de voir des animaux sans voir d’humains.
Se préparer avant de partir. Voir quels types de paysages vous allez traverser et quels animaux vous pouvez croiser. Votre regard cherchera alors une forme ou une couleur et vos chances de rencontres en seront décuplées. Rechercher les points de vue mentionnés sur les cartes ou les points d’eau. Rivière, étangs, l’eau est la première nourriture de tous les animaux, leur point de rendez vous. Il convient donc de les repérer, notamment en saison sèche. En saison plus humide, il faut patienter mais surtout ne pas repartir de suite.
Etre patient. C’est la première des règles: la patience. Il peut se passer de longues minutes et parfois des heures sans voir quelque chose d’intéressant. L’impatience troublera votre attention et vous passerez à côté de quelque chose. Mais même après de longues heures infructueuses, la magie du safari fait que cette attente sera immédiatement oublié à la première rencontre singulière.
Mon plus bel endroit
Tshokwane est une aire de pique nique située au croisement de plusieurs routes. Au Nord on se dirige vers Skukuza, au Sud Lower Sabie et à l’Ouest 
la plus grand camp, celui de Skukuza. Mais avant cette aire de pique nique sans intérêt, il y a un hot spot, un petit repère où l’on va “à ses risques et périls”. On s’arrête sur la route, on sort du véhicule (enfin) et on s’engouffre dans une cachette abritée. Face à vous, une immense plaine s’étend sans fin. Je pourrais rester là des heures.
Adepte en général du safari immobile, ce lieu est parfait pour moi. Armé de jumelles et peut être aussi d’un téléobjectif, le regard vous emmènent presque jusqu’aux limites du parc. Une vaste plaine, des forêts mais l’impression d’un monde plat, silencieux. Et souvent la récolte de ce “où est Charlie” géant est phénoménale.
Pour conclure, le parc Kruger est une merveilleuse destination, accessible à tous, permettant de voyager en liberté à moindre prix et en tout sécurité. Il permet de rencontrer la nature sauvage africaine dans toute sa richesse et sa grandeur. Car le safari n’est pas seulement la rencontre mais c’est aussi et surtout la quête de la rencontre.
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